Here is a list of ingredients in Mineral Makeup…..it explains what they are, and what they do…
About Ingredients
The information contained on these pages was collected from a variety of reliable and scientific sources. I believe that knowing and understanding exactly what ingredients are used in mineral makeup is key to choosing the right products for yourself and your skin.
The first section will detail all the ingredients that I use in my line and include rationale for their use. The second section details ingredients that I do not use, but they are commonly found in other mineral makeup lines.
Section One: My Ingredients
INORGANIC DRY COLORS
Inorganic colors (pigments) are composed of insoluble metallic compounds which are either derived from natural sources (e.g. china clay, carbon deposits) or are synthesized
Based on the composition pigments are divided into iron oxides, zinc oxides, carbon blacks, chromium oxide greens, and ultramarines
Since inorganic pigments are not considered to be irritant to mucous membranes, they do not require certification as do organic pigments
The colors of choice for eye shadows, mascara, and other products used in close proximity to the eye
Because inorganic pigments are not water soluble, they are utilized preferentially in solid makeup such as lipsticks, lip glosses, powders, and eyeliners
MICA
Any of the group of minerals that are found in crystallized, thin elastic sheets that can be separated easily.
They vary in color from pale green, brown, or black to col orless. Ground and used as a lubricant and coloring in cosmetics. Non-toxic and inert.
Chemically Mica is potassium aluminum silicate dihydrate. It is mined as the ore muscovite and occurs in multi-layered bright translucent sheets.
Mica imparts a natural translucence to face powders and powder blushers when used at levels up to 40%.
Their color ranges way beyond the rainbow, and mixing creates even more unique and beautiful shades.
Untreated micas are transparent and are thus coated with iron oxide pigments (black, red, yellow) and titanium dioxide to create silver-white but also gold, copper and bronze shades.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
Active ingredient that provides the greatest covering and tinting power of any white pigment.
Natural sun block reflecting light so UV rays never touch the skin. Occurs naturally in three different crystal forms.
Zinc Oxide
Used medicinally as an astringent, antiseptic, skin protective, encourages healing.
Works as an antiperspirant.
Zinc Oxide is a physical UV filter.
Zinc oxide is a protective substance which can be used as a sun block, provides near complete opacification to the sun’s rays.
Several products containing this have wonderful protective properties against the sun, and should be used by people who are extraordinarily sun sensitive.
Produced from naturally occurring zinc ore,
Super pure (free from other metals),
Soothing effects (widely used against skin irritations)
Good anti-fungal properties.
SERICITE
It has good adhesion and is the most common sericite used in mineral makeup.
Sericite is used extensively in cosmetics, especially in foundations as a base ingredient.
It is an inert, stable inorganic mineral which feels silky to the touch and reflects light, reducing the appearance of pores and wrinkles.
Sericite offers sheen and slip, and has average adhesion. It has low coverage.
It is not as shimmery as other options, such as bismuth oxychloride, but it is also not as matte as ingredients such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
SILK POWDER
Silk amino acids improve skin and hair with regard to feel and gloss, and have a moisturizing effect due to their water-binding properties.
A natural moisturizer, silk provides relief from sunburn, windburn, household burns and is an excellent skin cleanser before and after makeup use. It is an ancient aid to dry skin and so much more.
Silk adds a sheen to your makeup products as the light is reflected
Silk contains 18 amino acids which are easily absorbed into the skin
Silk both reflects and absorbs UV rays
Silk is a natural moisture-adjusting product which can absorb or release moisture as the temperature and humidity change. It is also a powder which “breathes”
Silk is an oil absorbent and is suitable for cosmetics for oily skin
Silica
It assists in binding and blending minerals to each other, as well as adding softness and slip to the finished product.
It is a spherical pigment, so it helps to hide imperfections when used in foundation formulas.
Silica has mattifying properties and is ideal for use in television and film as a setting powder to reduce shine.
It is an oil absorbent powder
BORON NITRIDE
Is a soft, silky white mineral powder.
It is used as an additive to improve the “slip” of a product (how smoothly the product applies) as well as “adhesion” (how long it stays on the skin).
MAGNESIUM STEARATE
White coloring agent (opacifier)
Filling agent for texture & consistency- an anti-caking agent, binding agent (adheres to the skin)
A light-weight powder that is an ester of magnesium (natural metal) & stearic acid (from vegetable oil)
IRON & TIN OXIDES
Used to color cosmetics. Any of several natural oxides of iron, iron combined with oxygen, varying in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow.
Provides superior color purity & saturation, outstanding dispersibility with no aggregate formation
These inorganic pigments are used in all types of cosmetics and have three basic shades: black, yellow and red. By blending these three oxides in the right proportions you can produce an array of browns, tans, and umbers for liquid foundations, face powders, and blushers.
By careful blending an array of natural looking flesh tones may be produced.
KAOLIN CLAY
Originally came from the Kaoling Hill in Kiangsi Providence in China.
A white powder insoluble in water and absorbent.
Absorbs oils and fats secreted from the skin.
Clays are used to draw our impurities and toxins through absorption.
Great for insect bites and stings.
Composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other minerals.
Clays remove old sebum (oil) that is clogged in pores.
Remove environmental poisons left of the skin.
White clay has electromagnetic qualities and attracts oils and particles left on the skin.
Great covering ability
Refines pores & helps clear up breakouts
Effective soothing properties (ideal for sensitive skin)
MAGNESIUM MYRISTATE TREATED SERICITE
Sericite Mica which has been surface treated with magnesium myristate offers great adhesion.
The treatments help increase wear-time by creating a water and/or oil resistant product.
Treatments also help keep the makeup color “true” throughout the day, eliminating the ashy-grey color that can happen when an untreated sericite product absorbs sebum.
ULTRAMARINES
Ultramarines vary in shade from bright blue to violet, pink and even green.
Provides superior color purity & saturation, outstanding dispersibility with no aggregate formation
Organic, FDA-approved, high-purity pigment
CHROMIUM GREEN OXIDE
Inorganic, FDA-approved, high-purity pigment
Provides superior color purity & saturation
Outstanding dispersibility with no aggregate formation
MANGONESE VIOLET
A mineral supplement which occurs in minerals.
Permanently listed for cosmetic coloring, including around the eyes in 1976.
Classified as certified purified inorganic colorants. Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications
FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
A flat blue pigment also known as Iron Blue and Prussian Blue
It is a bright, intense blue, with a much stronger dye load than the alternative pigment, Ultramarine Blue
Typically used in eye shadows
CARMINE
Extremely popular color through the ages, for example, it was used by the Aztecs for dyeing and painting
With the introduction of chemical dyes in the 1800’s, it lost favor simply because it is expensive and not particularly light fast
In modern times, its main uses are to color food (such as juice, ice cream and yogurt) and to color cosmetics such as lipsticks and lip balms, rouges and eye shadow
A “Natural Red Color” to use in cosmetics and toiletries. Carmine is by far the best option. However, its one drawback is that it is obviously not a “vegan” option
SECTION TWO:
OTHER MINERAL MAKEUP INGREDIENTS
BISMUTH OXYCHOLORIDE
synthetic, very fine crystals composed of bismuth (naturally occurring metallic element) & salt
Used as a Pearlizer & Texturizer
pearlescent pigment for excellent whiteness, lustre & brightness, good filling properties providing
smooth texture
the first synthetic, non-toxic, nacreous (having a pearly shine) pigment and has been used in cosmetics for decades
It is a dense, white, fine particle sized, pure, pharmaceutical grade powder that is safe for use in all cosmetics.
Although it has a high atomic weight it is not a heavy metal
Chemically, Bismuth is similar to arsenic- see attached article on use of Bismuth in cosmetics
TALC
Improves the slip and adhesion of color cosmetics and the translucency means that colors will be particularly bright and true
Creamy, white, non-carcinogenic powder used as a filler in powdered cosmetics
Has a very silky feel and has excellent adhesion and coverage properties, often used in place of sericite
Hydrous natural mineral, consists of silicon, oxygen & magnesium, purified to remove other metals & impurities
Filling agent (provides stability & texture), non-gelling thickener, film forming agent (adheres to the skin & repels water), carrier & stabilizer of fragrances due to chemical inertness
Has high incidence of allergic reactions, causing itching, redness and swelling- see attached article
Often used in place of more expensive ingredient options which offer the same adherence and slip to keep the cost of the product down and profits high
D&C COLORS AND LAKES
Organic colors were originally called coal tar or anilines because they were derived from coal sources. However, nowadays almost all organic colorants are synthetic and are available as either water soluble, oil soluble or insoluble (= Lakes) agents in all kinds of shades
Organic colors (lakes and dyes) are synthetic, chemically very complex molecules and are divided into various groups including indigoids, xanthenes, azos, nitros and others
They are made by taking a pigment substrate (calcium, barium, aluminum or sodium) and dying it with one of the various dyes. For example, FD&C Blue #1 Alum Lake is made by taking aluminum and dying it with FD&C Blue #1 dye.
As compared to inorganic colors, organic colors are available in a larger variety of shades
They can be utilized not only in solid makeup products (e.g. lipsticks), but also in aqueous products (e.g. nail lacquer, liquid makeup)
Since certain organic pigments can be an irritant to mucous membranes, all organic pigments must be approved and certified by the FDA. There are three types of color certifications
1) FD&C = certifiable colors that are for use in food, drug & cosmetics
2) D&C = certifiable colors that are for use in drug & cosmetics including those in contact with mucous membranes
3) External D&C = certifiable colors that are for use in drugs & cosmetics that do not come in contact with mucous membranes
CORNSTARCH
Natural sugar derived 100% from vegetable sources.
Cross linked with calcium salt to improve water swelling & thickening
swells in hot water
Thickener & viscosity enhancer, provides smooth velvety feel,
Mitigates heavy unpleasant & greasy feel of oils, esters & waxes,
Can replace talc in formulas
